From Paris to Portofino: A Journey Through Time
Some journeys are not about getting from one place to another: they’re about stepping into a dream. The journey from Paris to Portofino aboard the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express is exactly that: a dreamlike voyage, suspended in time, gliding between two icons of European elegance.
A Legend on Rails
Boarding the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express at the Gare d’Austerlitz, I was immediately transported into a golden age of travel. With its polished wood, Lalique glass panels, crisp linens, and liveried stewards, the train is more than a mode of transport: it’s a portal. You half expect Hercule Poirot to appear, adjusting his pocket watch.
Of course, it was Agatha Christie who immortalized this train in her 1934 novel Murder on the Orient Express. And while no crimes were committed on my journey (aside from the indulgence of a second serving of caviar), the atmosphere still held the suspense and allure of a bygone world: a world of ballgowns, tuxedos, and hushed conversations over crystal flutes of champagne.
Owned by the legendary Orient Express group, alongside icons such as the Cipriani in Venice and the Splendido in Portofino, the train has been carefully restored to its original 1920s glory. In 2014, these jewels were brought together under the Belmond name, a collection synonymous with timeless luxury and extraordinary storytelling.
A Route Born to Inspire
The Paris-to-Portofino route was launched in 2024, a rare, two-day journey that connects the refined grandeur of the French capital with the laid-back glamour of the Italian Riviera. From the rolling hills of Champagne to the sun-soaked cliffs of the Côte d’Azur, and through the winding Ligurian coast, the train traces a path between two cultures, two ways of life, two heartbeats of Europe.
Arriving at Santa Margherita Ligure after twenty-four hours of pure enchantment is a moment I will never forget. Disembarking under the palms, after a night of live music, fine dining, vintage cocktails, and elegant revelry, feels like waking from a beautiful dream and stepping into another.
The Crown of the Journey: Splendido, A Belmond Hotel
And then... Portofino. The very name sounds like sunshine. And towering above its iconic bay, painted in the soft blush tones of Ligurian dusk, stands the Splendido, guardian of the Italian Dolce Vita.
The restyling was entrusted to Martin Brudnizki and his acclaimed design studio, known for their ability to blend nostalgia and modern flair. What they created here is nothing short of a love letter to the Riviera: mosaic tiles echo across room’s bathrooms and the sun-drenched pool area. The new Bar Baratta 16 feels both timeless and fresh, the breakfast buffet is a spectacle of simplicity and taste, and the two panoramic restaurants: La Terrazza and the Splendido Grill, offer cuisine that’s as breathtaking as the view.
But the magic? It’s in the details. The salty scent of the sea. The pianist’s melody at sunset. The gossamer light on the sea. The symphony of cicadas.
More Than a Trip: A Feeling
This journey, for me, wasn’t just about places. It was about a feeling. A deep, ineffable joy. A profound sense of wonder. Gratitude. Nostalgia. Pride. Pride for the people: the staff, the artisans, the visionaries, who make such beauty possible.
On board the VSOE, as I sipped tea while watching Cannes glide past the window, I felt suspended between two worlds. The present and the past. France and Italy. Reality and reverie.
Because that’s what this journey is: a bridge between two masterpieces: the storied Orient Express and the sunlit Splendido, but also a bridge between two souls, two cultures that have shaped the world with their art, their music, their food, their passion.
Paris to Portofino isn’t just a route.
It’s a declaration of beauty.
A celebration of slowness.
A hymn to elegance.
And a reminder that, even in our hurried world, there are still places, still experiences, where time stops and enchantment unfolds.
